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Frequently Asked Questions
Where are you Located?
Newport New Hampshire.
| 1 hour from Manchester | 45 minutes from Keene | 2 hours from Boston | 2.5 hours from Portland
Do you deliver?
We are not able to deliver. Please be sure you have reliable transportation and do not rely on us to be able to deliver your rats. This is your responsibility as the buyer, and although I'd love to be able to deliver to people who cannot come pick-up their rats, it just isnt something we can do anymore.
Do you ship?
We do not currently and do not have plans to make this an option anytime soon.
Do you work with other breeders?
We enjoy working with other breeders and regularly participate in online breeder pages for new perspectives, questions, etc. We also work with other local breeders and often will trade breeding stock to introduce new colors, varieties, fur types, etc. We do not consider competition an issue and work together to bring the best rats to our shared community!
Do you mentor new breeders?
We are always willing to assist in breeding related questions, including husbandry, to provide accurate information to improve overall husbandry for rats. For full mentorship, we typically will only offer this time to breeders who get their rats through us, in which case we ask to stay on as mentors to ensure ethical breeding and to be a resource and guide as they learn the ropes. Our goal is and always will be to ensure responsible and ethical breeding. If we can assist in making this happen, we will!
I dont have a cage yet / My cage has 1" bar spacing, can I use a fish tank temporarily?
No. A rat should not be an impulse buy, which means you should have adequate time to get a suitable cage and supplies before getting your rats. You must have a suitable cage before the rats are 6 weeks old or you will not be able to pick them up.
Just like it is necessary to have a cage before you pick up your rats, you should also make sure this cage is suitable for baby rats. There should not be larger than 1/2" gap between the bars or the babies will be able to squeeze through with ease and this puts them at risk. Be sure your cage is suitable for baby rats.
If you want a low cost option for temporary housing, we can provide you with a basic Bin Cage for an additional charge. For more information on this option, please visit our "Bin Cage" page. If you wish to utilize this option, we MUST know in advanced, and payment must be submitted beforehand so that supplies can be gathered and the bin cage built in time for the rats to go home. Because this is a hand made item, we cannot offer a refund once it has been started.
What do you feed your rats?
We have a dry mix that we make up specifically for the rats, including some rotating proteins as well for a varied diet. Our mix typically consists of Doggy Bag dog food, Purina Hog Feed, various low protein, high quality dog food (rotation: senior/light - Natural Balance, Canidae, Wellness, Wildness, Merrick, etc), black oil sunflower seeds, barley, sugar free cereals, rolled oats, dried fruit and vegetebles (strawberries, bananas, raspberries, split peas, etc), as well as other ingredients on a various schedule, including dried mealworms, oxbow and Mazuri Rodent Breeder.
What do you use for treats for your rats?
We mix up a large amount of treats for all of our rats. It mostly consists of plain cereals, such as:
* Cheerios * Rice Krispies * Chex * Bran Flakes * Corn Flakes *
As well as some dried fruits and veggies, dried pasta and some ... less healthy goodies that make up about 1/8th of the mix. These include some mixed variety yogies, broken into small pieces, raisins and dried seeds and nuts.
Do you sell single rats?
Although I used to be fine with selling one rat to those who have rats at home, I have decided to change this policy, and beginning September, 2017, we will no longer sell single rats. This is because rats are so social, and even if there are other rats, there are still issues that can pose a problem.
* If you choose to quarantine, the baby would be alone for 2+ weeks and that is too long.
* If you are unable to do introductions right away, the rat is alone.
* If introductions do not work out and your current rats do not get along with the new baby, the rat is alone.
* If you have older rats, the new baby will pester them and will have no one their age to play with.
* If you have older rats and those rats pass, the rat is alone.
Rats are simply too social and I feel much better seeing my rats go to new homes together and be able to have a friend right from the beginning and not be alone, even if it is an inconvenience to some.
Can I buy 1 male and 1 female?
No. I prefer not to sell opposite sex rats in general, but certainly will not sell only one of each. Rats need same sex companions. Opposite genders, when kept together, WILL breed. Repeatedly. We do not sell breeding rats unless discussed prior and in depth. If you already have both sexes as pets, you would need to buy 2 rats of each gender, although I am still often hesitant of this. Keep in mind that keeping both sexes requires more responsibility. There are no accidental litters, only failure on the owners part to keep the genders separate. You will need to sign my contract which indicates the necessity of ensuring genders remain separate. "Accidental" litters are considered intentional and a breech of contract.
Do I need to fill out an application?
Yes you do, no exceptions.
Do you have a wait list?
I do not have a waiting list. For a detailed explanation of our adoption process, please click HERE.
When can we reserve babies?
I will not take requests until 6 weeks (12 weeks for dwarf) after they go through the final temperament evaluation. Once that is completed, those who pass and are pet quality will be placed in the available babies album on our facebook album (easier to update). They will be listed in that album for about 24 hours, at which time a post will go up at the specified time and we will take reservations then from people who have been approved prior. For a more detailed description of our adoption process, please see HERE.
What age do babies go home?
We let babies go to their new homes when they are 6 weeks old. If there is for any reason an issue to hold back the litter longer, they may go home closer to 8 weeks. This will usually be noted when the litter is announced unless for temperament re-evaluations. Dwarf must be 12 weeks before leaving.
How do I choose my babies?
We provide photos at birth, 1 week, 2 weeks, 5 weeks on average to show adopters their options. When it comes time to choose babies, adopters will choose via photos at 6 weeks. Occasionally we will offer a video of a portion of temperament testing, but not always. Unfortunately, we cannot offer in person choosing due to time and the possibility of bringing something back on the rats not chosen. However, rest assured that we put a significant amount of effort into producing quality pet rats and only those who pass our temperament evaluations are available for purchase.
I cant pick them up for [x] amount of time after they become available. Will you hold them?
We request a 50% deposit to reserve babies for 1 week. Beyond 1 week, the babies must be fully paid for and an additional fee of $5/week is required after 2 weeks. This fee goes towards their care for the extra time they remain at the rattery.
Can we come to the rattery to pick our babies?
We are a closed rattery and do not allow visitors to our home. This is not just for the safety of our family, but also my other animals. It is very important that we limit contact with potential viruses, bacteria and other contagions. We are very strict in this aspect and it is simply not something we want to risk, not only with the rats, but also with my dogs and cats, who could also catch a number of different things.
Do we need to bring a carrier?
Yes, you need to bring a carrier, or you can commission a bin carrier from us for $10. See "Bin Cages" for information.
Do rats carry diseases that affect people?
All animals carry diseases that can affect people. Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, poultry, even fish. They all have zoonotics specific to the species, many of which can transfer to people. Rats are no different, however, due to media coverage and general fear associated with rodents, they often have a worse reputation than "man's best friend," who can transfer a vast amount of illnesses to their human companions. It is your responsibility as a pet owner to understand the risks and weigh those risks in comparison to the benefits and decide if you are willing to take these risks. It is also a good idea to consider your family as a whole when deciding. Elderly, those with compromised immune systems and children under 5 years of age are generally more susceptible to illness from animals and this should be considered with caution. Although most of the illnesses that rats carry are not typically found in domesticated rats, they can contract them from wild rodents with both direct and indirect contact. This includes, but is not limited to: food and bedding contaminated with wild rodent urine and droppings, contact with owner, clothes, skin, and even in your nose and hair, can contaminate your own colony. Compare this to stepping in feces contaminated with parvovirus from an infected dog. You can infect your own dog via your exposure. This same concept applies to rats. For your convenience, we have gathered a list of the most common zoonotics associated with rats, along with suggestions on ways to minimize those risks.
Do you test for these viruses?
We have tested for Seoul Hantavirus during the last outbreak and tested negative. Although we would like to be able to test for all the viruses and illnesses that rats can carry, there are some that do not have tests available, or those tests are unreliable and we have opted to not have these tests performed as they carry a high risk of false-positives that could condemn our rats. Although we would never knowingly risk public safety, it is not worth it to pay for a test that is known to throw frequent false-positives.
With this said, please understand that due to the nature of these pathogens, we cannot guarantee against these things once the rats leave the rattery. Exposure can happen from the simplest things at any time and most zoonotics do not display symptoms in rats so we cannot be held accountable for rats once they leave the rattery. As pet owners, accepting that our pets can transmit certain illnesses are part of the considerations we all have to make.
Do you handle babies?
This is a question that needs a bit more explanation than I can give here. For an in-depth answer, please see our page on Temperament & Evaluation!
Do you temperament test?
We do not temperament test, per se. We evaluate our rats genetic temperament from before they even open their eyes. We continue to evaluate them up until they go home. For an in-depth look at our method, please see our page on Temperament and Evaluation!
Do you hard cull?
Because we are still working on some newer lines and varieties, we do still have a necessity to hard cull. Rats that are extremely skittish and fearful of their environment, or are aggressive, either to rats or people are unfortunately best to be humanely euthanized. It is a difficult part of breeding rats and as much as it saddens me at the very thought, in these cases, it is far more ethical to euthanize them rather than let them live their life so terrified of their surroundings, people, and other rats that they scream when held, risk injury or death from a high fall by jumping away, or bite. It is also not something any owner should have to deal with, and, besides the fact that it is a tremendous liability for me to do so, I do not agree with passing off a problem animal to someone else to make it their problem. Some people will argue that with "trust training" these rats can live good lives, however, for an animal who has such a short life span, spending even 1/3-1/2 of its life forced to interact with the object of its fear is simply not fair to the animal. Euthanizing rats with a poor quality of life is standard of many quality ratteries and is easily the worst, but often necessary, part of breeding rats. That is why it is so important to understand genetics and carefully plan litters and have a clear goal before breeding. We hope that one day, as our lines progress, we will not have any need to euthanize rats for behavioral issues.
Can I put rats with mice?
No. Rats are predators. They WILL kill the mice. It may not be right away, it may not even be for a week or a month, but one day, you will come home to a dead mouse. Do not do it, for the sake of the mice. This also applies to other small animals. We do not condone inter-species relationships.
Are your rats used to dogs and cats?
They are aware of them from afar. I do not allow my rats to interact with other animals, it is simply not safe. I know from personal experience just how quickly things can turn from cute and innocent to predator and prey. And in that second, your rat can obtain a fatal wound. The safety of my rats take priority over a fantasy friendship and I will not approve of such attempts.
Can I breed the rats I adopt?
No, I do not typically allow people to breed my rats. Intentionally or unintentionally. If you are familiar with ethical and responsible rat breeding, I may make an exception, but it will be a case by case basis and it will be conditional. If you are allowed to do so, you will need to work with me and we will find suitable rats for you. The rats adopted with the purpose of breeding will have a contract and will not be permitted to sell to other breeders for 3 generation. Depending on the rats chosen for breeding, there may be other stipulations. We will discuss in detail the history of the rats and any issues that could arise.
Please be up front with your desire to breed. There are some rats that my be ok with breeding, and there may be others that may have certain issues that make them fine pets, but less desired for breeding, and for your sake, as well as the rats sake, it is not wise to breed rats that you are not informed about the genetic history of. Being a responsible and ethical breeder begins with honesty. Believe me when I say that you will not have good standing in the breeding community by breeding rats sold on a pet only contract. It is highly frowned upon, even in the rat community.
Can I breed for food?
The same applies to breeding food as breeding in general. There could still be kinks in the line that need to be worked out and if you are breeding unknown rats without care, you can produce very poor quality rats, even aggressive rats, which could be dangerous for the animal that the rats are intended for. We ask that you be honest in your intentions.
Do you take in rescues?
For the safety of our rats, we do not take in rescues of any kind unless they are rats bred by us that need to find a new home. In this instance, we kindly ask our adopters to give them back to us as it is important for our records to know where our rats are.
Have another question that wasnt answered here? Message our facebook page and inquire
Newport New Hampshire.
| 1 hour from Manchester | 45 minutes from Keene | 2 hours from Boston | 2.5 hours from Portland
Do you deliver?
We are not able to deliver. Please be sure you have reliable transportation and do not rely on us to be able to deliver your rats. This is your responsibility as the buyer, and although I'd love to be able to deliver to people who cannot come pick-up their rats, it just isnt something we can do anymore.
Do you ship?
We do not currently and do not have plans to make this an option anytime soon.
Do you work with other breeders?
We enjoy working with other breeders and regularly participate in online breeder pages for new perspectives, questions, etc. We also work with other local breeders and often will trade breeding stock to introduce new colors, varieties, fur types, etc. We do not consider competition an issue and work together to bring the best rats to our shared community!
Do you mentor new breeders?
We are always willing to assist in breeding related questions, including husbandry, to provide accurate information to improve overall husbandry for rats. For full mentorship, we typically will only offer this time to breeders who get their rats through us, in which case we ask to stay on as mentors to ensure ethical breeding and to be a resource and guide as they learn the ropes. Our goal is and always will be to ensure responsible and ethical breeding. If we can assist in making this happen, we will!
I dont have a cage yet / My cage has 1" bar spacing, can I use a fish tank temporarily?
No. A rat should not be an impulse buy, which means you should have adequate time to get a suitable cage and supplies before getting your rats. You must have a suitable cage before the rats are 6 weeks old or you will not be able to pick them up.
Just like it is necessary to have a cage before you pick up your rats, you should also make sure this cage is suitable for baby rats. There should not be larger than 1/2" gap between the bars or the babies will be able to squeeze through with ease and this puts them at risk. Be sure your cage is suitable for baby rats.
If you want a low cost option for temporary housing, we can provide you with a basic Bin Cage for an additional charge. For more information on this option, please visit our "Bin Cage" page. If you wish to utilize this option, we MUST know in advanced, and payment must be submitted beforehand so that supplies can be gathered and the bin cage built in time for the rats to go home. Because this is a hand made item, we cannot offer a refund once it has been started.
What do you feed your rats?
We have a dry mix that we make up specifically for the rats, including some rotating proteins as well for a varied diet. Our mix typically consists of Doggy Bag dog food, Purina Hog Feed, various low protein, high quality dog food (rotation: senior/light - Natural Balance, Canidae, Wellness, Wildness, Merrick, etc), black oil sunflower seeds, barley, sugar free cereals, rolled oats, dried fruit and vegetebles (strawberries, bananas, raspberries, split peas, etc), as well as other ingredients on a various schedule, including dried mealworms, oxbow and Mazuri Rodent Breeder.
What do you use for treats for your rats?
We mix up a large amount of treats for all of our rats. It mostly consists of plain cereals, such as:
* Cheerios * Rice Krispies * Chex * Bran Flakes * Corn Flakes *
As well as some dried fruits and veggies, dried pasta and some ... less healthy goodies that make up about 1/8th of the mix. These include some mixed variety yogies, broken into small pieces, raisins and dried seeds and nuts.
Do you sell single rats?
Although I used to be fine with selling one rat to those who have rats at home, I have decided to change this policy, and beginning September, 2017, we will no longer sell single rats. This is because rats are so social, and even if there are other rats, there are still issues that can pose a problem.
* If you choose to quarantine, the baby would be alone for 2+ weeks and that is too long.
* If you are unable to do introductions right away, the rat is alone.
* If introductions do not work out and your current rats do not get along with the new baby, the rat is alone.
* If you have older rats, the new baby will pester them and will have no one their age to play with.
* If you have older rats and those rats pass, the rat is alone.
Rats are simply too social and I feel much better seeing my rats go to new homes together and be able to have a friend right from the beginning and not be alone, even if it is an inconvenience to some.
Can I buy 1 male and 1 female?
No. I prefer not to sell opposite sex rats in general, but certainly will not sell only one of each. Rats need same sex companions. Opposite genders, when kept together, WILL breed. Repeatedly. We do not sell breeding rats unless discussed prior and in depth. If you already have both sexes as pets, you would need to buy 2 rats of each gender, although I am still often hesitant of this. Keep in mind that keeping both sexes requires more responsibility. There are no accidental litters, only failure on the owners part to keep the genders separate. You will need to sign my contract which indicates the necessity of ensuring genders remain separate. "Accidental" litters are considered intentional and a breech of contract.
Do I need to fill out an application?
Yes you do, no exceptions.
Do you have a wait list?
I do not have a waiting list. For a detailed explanation of our adoption process, please click HERE.
When can we reserve babies?
I will not take requests until 6 weeks (12 weeks for dwarf) after they go through the final temperament evaluation. Once that is completed, those who pass and are pet quality will be placed in the available babies album on our facebook album (easier to update). They will be listed in that album for about 24 hours, at which time a post will go up at the specified time and we will take reservations then from people who have been approved prior. For a more detailed description of our adoption process, please see HERE.
What age do babies go home?
We let babies go to their new homes when they are 6 weeks old. If there is for any reason an issue to hold back the litter longer, they may go home closer to 8 weeks. This will usually be noted when the litter is announced unless for temperament re-evaluations. Dwarf must be 12 weeks before leaving.
How do I choose my babies?
We provide photos at birth, 1 week, 2 weeks, 5 weeks on average to show adopters their options. When it comes time to choose babies, adopters will choose via photos at 6 weeks. Occasionally we will offer a video of a portion of temperament testing, but not always. Unfortunately, we cannot offer in person choosing due to time and the possibility of bringing something back on the rats not chosen. However, rest assured that we put a significant amount of effort into producing quality pet rats and only those who pass our temperament evaluations are available for purchase.
I cant pick them up for [x] amount of time after they become available. Will you hold them?
We request a 50% deposit to reserve babies for 1 week. Beyond 1 week, the babies must be fully paid for and an additional fee of $5/week is required after 2 weeks. This fee goes towards their care for the extra time they remain at the rattery.
Can we come to the rattery to pick our babies?
We are a closed rattery and do not allow visitors to our home. This is not just for the safety of our family, but also my other animals. It is very important that we limit contact with potential viruses, bacteria and other contagions. We are very strict in this aspect and it is simply not something we want to risk, not only with the rats, but also with my dogs and cats, who could also catch a number of different things.
Do we need to bring a carrier?
Yes, you need to bring a carrier, or you can commission a bin carrier from us for $10. See "Bin Cages" for information.
Do rats carry diseases that affect people?
All animals carry diseases that can affect people. Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, poultry, even fish. They all have zoonotics specific to the species, many of which can transfer to people. Rats are no different, however, due to media coverage and general fear associated with rodents, they often have a worse reputation than "man's best friend," who can transfer a vast amount of illnesses to their human companions. It is your responsibility as a pet owner to understand the risks and weigh those risks in comparison to the benefits and decide if you are willing to take these risks. It is also a good idea to consider your family as a whole when deciding. Elderly, those with compromised immune systems and children under 5 years of age are generally more susceptible to illness from animals and this should be considered with caution. Although most of the illnesses that rats carry are not typically found in domesticated rats, they can contract them from wild rodents with both direct and indirect contact. This includes, but is not limited to: food and bedding contaminated with wild rodent urine and droppings, contact with owner, clothes, skin, and even in your nose and hair, can contaminate your own colony. Compare this to stepping in feces contaminated with parvovirus from an infected dog. You can infect your own dog via your exposure. This same concept applies to rats. For your convenience, we have gathered a list of the most common zoonotics associated with rats, along with suggestions on ways to minimize those risks.
Do you test for these viruses?
We have tested for Seoul Hantavirus during the last outbreak and tested negative. Although we would like to be able to test for all the viruses and illnesses that rats can carry, there are some that do not have tests available, or those tests are unreliable and we have opted to not have these tests performed as they carry a high risk of false-positives that could condemn our rats. Although we would never knowingly risk public safety, it is not worth it to pay for a test that is known to throw frequent false-positives.
With this said, please understand that due to the nature of these pathogens, we cannot guarantee against these things once the rats leave the rattery. Exposure can happen from the simplest things at any time and most zoonotics do not display symptoms in rats so we cannot be held accountable for rats once they leave the rattery. As pet owners, accepting that our pets can transmit certain illnesses are part of the considerations we all have to make.
Do you handle babies?
This is a question that needs a bit more explanation than I can give here. For an in-depth answer, please see our page on Temperament & Evaluation!
Do you temperament test?
We do not temperament test, per se. We evaluate our rats genetic temperament from before they even open their eyes. We continue to evaluate them up until they go home. For an in-depth look at our method, please see our page on Temperament and Evaluation!
Do you hard cull?
Because we are still working on some newer lines and varieties, we do still have a necessity to hard cull. Rats that are extremely skittish and fearful of their environment, or are aggressive, either to rats or people are unfortunately best to be humanely euthanized. It is a difficult part of breeding rats and as much as it saddens me at the very thought, in these cases, it is far more ethical to euthanize them rather than let them live their life so terrified of their surroundings, people, and other rats that they scream when held, risk injury or death from a high fall by jumping away, or bite. It is also not something any owner should have to deal with, and, besides the fact that it is a tremendous liability for me to do so, I do not agree with passing off a problem animal to someone else to make it their problem. Some people will argue that with "trust training" these rats can live good lives, however, for an animal who has such a short life span, spending even 1/3-1/2 of its life forced to interact with the object of its fear is simply not fair to the animal. Euthanizing rats with a poor quality of life is standard of many quality ratteries and is easily the worst, but often necessary, part of breeding rats. That is why it is so important to understand genetics and carefully plan litters and have a clear goal before breeding. We hope that one day, as our lines progress, we will not have any need to euthanize rats for behavioral issues.
Can I put rats with mice?
No. Rats are predators. They WILL kill the mice. It may not be right away, it may not even be for a week or a month, but one day, you will come home to a dead mouse. Do not do it, for the sake of the mice. This also applies to other small animals. We do not condone inter-species relationships.
Are your rats used to dogs and cats?
They are aware of them from afar. I do not allow my rats to interact with other animals, it is simply not safe. I know from personal experience just how quickly things can turn from cute and innocent to predator and prey. And in that second, your rat can obtain a fatal wound. The safety of my rats take priority over a fantasy friendship and I will not approve of such attempts.
Can I breed the rats I adopt?
No, I do not typically allow people to breed my rats. Intentionally or unintentionally. If you are familiar with ethical and responsible rat breeding, I may make an exception, but it will be a case by case basis and it will be conditional. If you are allowed to do so, you will need to work with me and we will find suitable rats for you. The rats adopted with the purpose of breeding will have a contract and will not be permitted to sell to other breeders for 3 generation. Depending on the rats chosen for breeding, there may be other stipulations. We will discuss in detail the history of the rats and any issues that could arise.
Please be up front with your desire to breed. There are some rats that my be ok with breeding, and there may be others that may have certain issues that make them fine pets, but less desired for breeding, and for your sake, as well as the rats sake, it is not wise to breed rats that you are not informed about the genetic history of. Being a responsible and ethical breeder begins with honesty. Believe me when I say that you will not have good standing in the breeding community by breeding rats sold on a pet only contract. It is highly frowned upon, even in the rat community.
Can I breed for food?
The same applies to breeding food as breeding in general. There could still be kinks in the line that need to be worked out and if you are breeding unknown rats without care, you can produce very poor quality rats, even aggressive rats, which could be dangerous for the animal that the rats are intended for. We ask that you be honest in your intentions.
Do you take in rescues?
For the safety of our rats, we do not take in rescues of any kind unless they are rats bred by us that need to find a new home. In this instance, we kindly ask our adopters to give them back to us as it is important for our records to know where our rats are.
Have another question that wasnt answered here? Message our facebook page and inquire