GENERAL INFORMATION
Life Span:
Depending on where your rats come from, they can have a life span of between 1-4 years. Many pet stores order their rats from largescale breeding facilities who breed primarily for feeders to sell to pet stores. They do not concern themselves with health or temperament and so these rats often pass between 1-2 years, although its not impossible to live beyond that age. If you are buying from a responsible breeder, the life span can reach 3-4 years, although 4 years is less common.
As of 2020, our average lifespan is around 2.5 years old with some exceeding that. Breeding for longevity can be a lengthy task but one that we are striving for. For the last 3 years, we have been breeding with a focus on health and a decreased incidence of tumors as these are primary reasons rats live short lives. We also use information from our adopters to help us maintain good records and can dictate which direction to go with a particular line. Other things that affect longevity is diet and maintaining good health. Periodically listen for raspy breathing, check skin for scabs which may indicate external parasites, and treat every 6 months of so with kitten revolution to aid with some internal parasites should they occur. Monitor stools for changes and give proper vet care when needed. Do not allow upper respiratory infections to fester. The longer they have an URI, the more damage to the respiratory tract. They should be treated promptly at the first signs of onset for best results.
Depending on where your rats come from, they can have a life span of between 1-4 years. Many pet stores order their rats from largescale breeding facilities who breed primarily for feeders to sell to pet stores. They do not concern themselves with health or temperament and so these rats often pass between 1-2 years, although its not impossible to live beyond that age. If you are buying from a responsible breeder, the life span can reach 3-4 years, although 4 years is less common.
As of 2020, our average lifespan is around 2.5 years old with some exceeding that. Breeding for longevity can be a lengthy task but one that we are striving for. For the last 3 years, we have been breeding with a focus on health and a decreased incidence of tumors as these are primary reasons rats live short lives. We also use information from our adopters to help us maintain good records and can dictate which direction to go with a particular line. Other things that affect longevity is diet and maintaining good health. Periodically listen for raspy breathing, check skin for scabs which may indicate external parasites, and treat every 6 months of so with kitten revolution to aid with some internal parasites should they occur. Monitor stools for changes and give proper vet care when needed. Do not allow upper respiratory infections to fester. The longer they have an URI, the more damage to the respiratory tract. They should be treated promptly at the first signs of onset for best results.
Sexually Mature:
6 weeks, although pregnancy at this age is uncommon, it can happen. Do not allow opposite sex rats interact beyond this age as pregnancy is almost imminent. This includes "supervised" play time, cage cleaning, etc. Also note that mating through bars is NOT POSSIBLE. Rats are not physically capable of mating through bars, regardless if your friends mothers neighbor said hes seen it happen. Female rats require the lordosis reflex to mate, which is initiated when the male grasps her around the abdomen. a male rat would need substantially longer arms as well as a much larger penis to successfully mate through bars. |
Health Issues: Tumors (benign and malignant) Abscess Upper Respiratory Illness (URI) Skin Parasites (mites or lice) Obesity Hind End Degeneration (end of life) Rats from poor sources may also include: Misaligned teeth (Malocclusion) Megacolon Small Eye |
Male or Female? There are some differences with the genders. Boys are typically lazy and enjoy snuggling and sleeping. They will use hammocks and sleep sacks like no other. They are not typically interested in learning tricks. Girls on the other hand are adventurous, playful, always exploring and investigating new things. They like an assortment of toys and fun cages. They dont usually sit still for long, preferring to run around. Girls are also more interested in learning tricks. |
Dwarf or Standard? Dwarf rats are considerably smaller than Standard rats, but they are the same species and can be housed together without worry (so long as you do not have overly aggressive rats). Dwarf rats are generally the same as standards, but tend to be a bit more energetic, seemingly remaining in the "baby stage" for longer. Health is generally the same, with Dwarf having significantly reduced incidents of tumors, due to the lack of growth hormones. Otherwise, care requirements remain the same and regardless of their smaller size, they do need a suitable large cage/bin cage. |
RATS ARE SOCIAL
RESEARCH VERIFIED Lone Rats Comparable to Schizophrenia Increased Sensitivity to Amphetamine and Reward-Related Stimuli Increases Aggressive Behaviour Diminution of LTP in the CA1 to Subiculum Pathway Behavioural and Neurochemical Effects of Post-Weaning Social Isolation Influence of Postweaning Social Isolation in the Rat on Brain Development, Conditioned Behavior, and Neurotransmission Aggressive Behavior and HPA Axis Hormones After Social Isolation in Adult Rats Involvement of α-MSH in the Social Isolation Induced Anxiety- and Depression-Like Behaviors in Rat Effect of Social Isolation on Stress-Related Behavioural and Neuroendocrine State in the Rat Influence of Social Isolation on Changes in Brain Monoamine Turnover and Biosynthesis of the Rat The Effects of Social Isolation on Neuropeptide Y Levels, Exploratory and Anxiety-Related Behaviors in Rats |
Rats are social animals and should not be alone. It doesnt matter if you've done it before. It doesnt matter that you have them out of the cage all day. It doesnt matter that you thought they were fine. They are not as happy as they would be if they had a rat companion. They often become depressed, sleep more often, and can develop habits such as chewing bars which can lead to damaged teeth. There are also many studies indicating that social isolation in rats leads to behavioral problems, aggression, and increased stress levels. Social isolation in these cases is in reference to isolation from other rats. It does not matter if you give them lots of attention, it is not a suitable substitution for the social interaction of their own kind.
Please also note that if you are getting a rat because one of your rats has passed on and the remaining rat is also old, it is a good idea to consider getting 2 rats instead of just one so that you are not in the same postion when the older rat passes. This also will give the younger rat a companion to play with, as the energy level of an older rat will not meet the babies and may lead to a rambunctious young rat aggravating a slower older rat. EXCEPTION TO THE RULE |
The only exception to this is in the event a companion passes away, leaving an old rat alone and you do not intend to keep rats after the last one passes. In this instance, with extra attention, an older rat can live a solo life. If you cannot provide extra attention, it may be better to give the rat to someone who has an existing colony and willing to take on an older rat, or someone who wants a solo rat and has ample time to give them.
BEDDING
Based on studies done comparing different bedding options for small animals, we recommend using either kiln dried pine or aspen shavings as a primary bedding as it is shown to be one of the most effective, commonly available options for pet owners. Note that Carefresh, which is commonly supported and recommended by pet groups has the highest ppm values which are nearly ten times that of pine. This will have a serious effect on your pets respiratory system as the ammonia continues to build. In this study, Carefresh was discontinued after 2 weeks while the rest of the study continued for a total of 3 weeks.
Due to the high levels of ammonia presented with Carefresh after just 2 weeks use, we do not recommend any paper based bedding, including, but not limited to, Kaytee Clean and Cozy, Newspaper, or Yesterdays News. Use of these beddings will void our health guarantee.
Due to the high levels of ammonia presented with Carefresh after just 2 weeks use, we do not recommend any paper based bedding, including, but not limited to, Kaytee Clean and Cozy, Newspaper, or Yesterdays News. Use of these beddings will void our health guarantee.
Bed-O'cobs, which is essentially corn cob bedding does do quite well in terms of ammonia control, however, I will note that this bedding does mold faster and easier than other types of bedding which can be harmful to small animals. So although it does show to be effective in regards to ammonia control, we do not recommend it as a primary bedding, but it may be suitable for litter boxes which should be changed more frequently.
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Beta Chips may be obtainable for northeastern pet owners through NEPCO but it may be difficult to come by as it is generally designed and sold to labs. It may be worth it however, to check with local pet stores or other farm stores to inquire if the product can be special ordered. Cell-Sorb may be found in stores or online, however their values are similar to pine so either option is comparable. ALPHA-Dri is a lab product and although it helps to reduce ammonia build-up, it is not a commonly available product.
PDF LINK
PDF LINK
Fleece as Bedding
We do not recommend or support the use of fleece for a primary bedding. Fleece is not an absorbent material and urine will settle below the fleece and ammonia will build up quickly. The only way to safely use fleece is to remove and thoroughly wash the material every day, or, at the absolute minimum, every other day and all surfaces cleaned well between replacement. Regardless of this, we cannot maintain our health guarantee if an adopter chooses to use fleece. We highly recommend using a more absorbent bedding such as pine or aspen and limit the use of fleece in your cage. If you must use fleece for shelves, hammocks, etc, please keep in mind that even litter trained rats are likely to dribble and changing and washing any and all fleece in your cage is necessary to keep your pets healthy.
CAGING
See our quick pick guide with dimensions, pricing, pros, cons and more for different recommended rat cages.
GO TO QUICK PICK GUIDE >
FOOD/TREATS
Main Food Source:
Senior/Lite Dog foods with low protein such as:
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Dry Additions To Main Food:
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Treats:
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CHEWS, TOYS AND ENRICHMENT
CHEWS
Although rats teeth are naturally able to be ground down with bruxing, chew toys can offer great enrichment! Lava Chews and safe wood products are the most popular chew toys, but that is not all you can use. You can toss in some boxes, paper towel tubes and toilet paper tubes. There are also some dog chews that are safe for rats. Nylabone edibles or whimzees (my rats go CRAZY for the veggie pig ears!) in the dog treat section. Another great place to look for safe and fun chew toys is the bird section! Look for wood/husk and paper based chews over the plastic. |
TOYS
Rats love to play with toys, and just like with chews, you dont need to stick in the small animal section. Many bird toys are rat safe, as birds are notoriously sensitive to a variety of products, you can rest easy that your ratty can be safe while enjoying something different. You can also grab some cat toys, like little fuzzy mice (no catnip), balls with bells inside or ping pong balls. Things around your house can also double as rat toys, such as tissue boxes. |
ENRICHMENT
There are other things you can give your rat to work their mind and get them excited beyond your standard toys.
There are other things you can give your rat to work their mind and get them excited beyond your standard toys.
- Dig Boxes: These are quite popular, which consist of a clean soil (no added chemicals or fertilizers) in a tray or tote. Fill halfway with the soil and sprinkle in some bird seed and lightly water it. In a few days, you'll have some good sprouts already. I dont suggest watering it for a couple of days before you let your rats enjoy it, that way it is not muddy. Your rats will have a blast digging in the soil, chewing on sprouts and roots, and digging up seeds that havent sprouted!
- Bobbing for ----: Fill a shallow bowl or tray with water and toss in some mixed veggies. Your rats will have a fun time trying to get the veggies out of the water! This is great for summertime!
- Peanut Box: Grab a nice size box or tray and fill with starch packing peanuts. These peanuts are biodegradable and safe if consumed, they are also fun to jump around in like a little ratty ball pit!
- Box City: Dont throw away your useless boxes! Round them up and grab the scissors and packing tape. Cut doors and windows in the boxes and tape them together to form an awesome ratty city!
FREE ROAM TIME (And Exercise Balls)
Most rats benefit from free roam time, however, if your rats are shy or timid, free roam time is not a necessity and in some cases can actually be detrimental. Consider the temperament of your rat when deciding if free roam is right for you and them.
Exercise balls are not appropriate for rats at all. They are poorly ventilated, which make it difficult for rats to breath and can irritate their respiratory systems similarly to aquarium tanks. Rats also urinate and defecate as they run, having nowhere else to go, and having no other options, walk through their own urine and feces repeatedly. This is not fun for the rat or the owners, who must handle a urine covered rat. The slits in the balls are dangerous and rats can easily get toes and nails caught as they run and tear or break them. Another thing to consider is that rats are prey animals and balls restrict their senses. Even clear balls distort their vision outside, and they scratch and get dirty quickly and are no longer clear. They cannot smell through the scent of their own urine and feces, and they cannot feel anything as they explore. They cant interact with eachother or with toys and objects outside of the ball. Despite being considered "fun out of cage time," exercise balls are, in fact, boring, scary and dangerous.
Rats are smart creatures. You can teach them recall and they will learn their name. The more you work with them, the better they will become. Once you have a good recall down, you can work with your rats outside of the cage and offer them more time playing in a rat-proofed room. Many people use their bathroom, bedroom, or, if you are too limited, you can always just set up a cool play place on your bed. Boxes, tubes, crumpled blankets, etc.
Exercise balls are not appropriate for rats at all. They are poorly ventilated, which make it difficult for rats to breath and can irritate their respiratory systems similarly to aquarium tanks. Rats also urinate and defecate as they run, having nowhere else to go, and having no other options, walk through their own urine and feces repeatedly. This is not fun for the rat or the owners, who must handle a urine covered rat. The slits in the balls are dangerous and rats can easily get toes and nails caught as they run and tear or break them. Another thing to consider is that rats are prey animals and balls restrict their senses. Even clear balls distort their vision outside, and they scratch and get dirty quickly and are no longer clear. They cannot smell through the scent of their own urine and feces, and they cannot feel anything as they explore. They cant interact with eachother or with toys and objects outside of the ball. Despite being considered "fun out of cage time," exercise balls are, in fact, boring, scary and dangerous.
Rats are smart creatures. You can teach them recall and they will learn their name. The more you work with them, the better they will become. Once you have a good recall down, you can work with your rats outside of the cage and offer them more time playing in a rat-proofed room. Many people use their bathroom, bedroom, or, if you are too limited, you can always just set up a cool play place on your bed. Boxes, tubes, crumpled blankets, etc.
RUNNING WHEELS
Some rats thoroughly enjoy having a wheel in their cage. If you choose to use a wheel, we recommend using a solid bucket style 12" wheel. Smaller than 12" can result in damage to the spine. Mesh wheels can cause injury to toes and tails that may get caught in the cross bars as the wheel turns.
Some rats may get what is known as "wheel tail" if they are frequent runners. This is when a rat begins carrying their tail up over their back even off the wheel.
Some rats thoroughly enjoy having a wheel in their cage. If you choose to use a wheel, we recommend using a solid bucket style 12" wheel. Smaller than 12" can result in damage to the spine. Mesh wheels can cause injury to toes and tails that may get caught in the cross bars as the wheel turns.
Some rats may get what is known as "wheel tail" if they are frequent runners. This is when a rat begins carrying their tail up over their back even off the wheel.
RAT FIRST AID KIT
General Supplies
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Mite/Lice/Parasite Treatment
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